Our recent visit to Amritsar, Punjab

 

Butter chicken with butter naan

It was my first time visiting the city of Amritsar, in the state of Punjab, India. Growing up, most of my knowledge of Punjab and its community came from watching Indian cinema and reading Khuswant Singh's novels. So, I was really excited to experience the culture first-hand during this visit. Often simply characterized as flamboyant in movies, I was mostly struck by the generosity of the Sikh community. Mostly, I found the langar (free meals served to masses daily) and the free drinks to beat the summer heat very commendable. The Golden temple, beautifully lit in the evenings along with the loud chanting was a surreal experience. I finally got to experience authentic Punjabi cuisine in the lands of its origin, which was a welcome departure from the version of this food one encounters on menus in most Indian restaurants.

   

For breakfast, we tried parathas (stuffed breads mostly with potato, cauliflower or cottage cheese), chole-kulcha (freshly made flour breads with dollops of butter and a side of chick-pea curry just melted in your mouth) with a buttermilk drink (lassi) in various dining settings. However, my personal favorite version was the one served in the mom-n-pop restaurants located in the tiny streets of the old town. Although navigating this side of the town was a bit chaotic, it was worth all the effort. 

Kebabs with garlic naan

Butter chicken or chicken makhani made from spiced tomato gravy and lots of butter that is present in global Indian cuisine finds its origin in this part of the world. It didn't disappoint. We tried several versions of the dish during our trip, but my personal favorite was the one we had at the Punjabi "village" Sadda Pind. The reasonably priced buffet at Rs 850 per head (approximately 10 dollars) included in the entrance fee, was indeed a treat. In addition, I had a very good butter chicken meal here along with a variety of other authentic Punjabi dishes like dal makhani, paneer lababdar, Punjabi kadi, and freshly prepared naans doused with generous amounts of butter. The service was spectacular! In addition to the buffet, we also got to sample freshly prepared makki ki roti and sarson da saag (corn bread with mustard and spinach greens) at a local stall. 

Breakfast kulcha with chole

Finally, I would not be doing justice to the city's food scene without mentioning the succulent chicken tikka and lamb chops, served with garlic naan cut into small squares we had at one of the highway dabba (restaurant) near the India-Pakistan border. Although not very cheap, the meat was juicy and charred lending it an unforgettable flavor. Finally, if you have a sweet tooth, you must not miss the freshly made jalebis on the streets in Old Town.  

I only wished it was a bit cooler (37 degrees Celsius in summer months, is probably not the best time to visit the city, but well...). If you are thinking of visiting the city, you must plan a trip in the winter months. Nevertheless, Amritsar offered a great experience especially if you are keen to try out authentic Punjabi cuisine. Last but not the least, this trip was made special by my older sisters, who I got to bond with after decades, which is rare given adult responsibilities.